My goal is to help you turn your quilt into a family heirloom regardless if it is your first quilt or your hundredth. Your quilt deserves to be finished and displayed or even better, used ever day.
I have been professionally longarm quilting since 2007. I have quilted for Cheryl Wall of Country Quilts, Rachel Griffith of PS I Quilt and Barb Cherniwchan of Coach House Designs. I have won many ribbons for my quilting; the highest honor has been the Canadian Quilters Association rosette that I won in 2013. In addition, WorkBox Magazine featured me in their September 2014 issue where I made the cover of the magazine.
I use an APQS longarm machine with a 14ft table and can quilt quilts of any size; you are only limited by your imagination.
I offer a variety of quilting pantographs(edge to edge designs) and custom quilting with a fast turn around time.
Need help to completely finish your quilt?
Binding services are also available.
604 798 3670 or via email, email@example.com
Pricing is done by the square inch; multiply the width by the length of your quilt, then use the figures below.
Meandering and straight line quilting $.019/sq inch(no further discounts apply)
Edge to Edge quilting $.024/sq inch
Custom quilting starting at $.04/sq inch(no further discounts apply, thread charge not included)
Discount patterns- pantographs that can be quilted quickly, are offered at a lower quilting cost with no other discounts.
Lap quilts $65
Lap quilts $65
Twin quilts $80
Double quilts $95
Queen quilts $125
King quilts $155
Seniors and guild members receive 10% off of regular quilting cost.
I carry 90inch and 120inch wide Hobbs 80/20 and 90inch wide 80/20 Quilters Dream batting.
Minimum quilt charge $50
Ironing a quilt back $10
Piecing quilt backing $15/seam(ironing included)
Rush quilts minimum charge of $50
NO thread charge
NO charge for quilt trimming
A gallery of my work can be seen here- longarm quilting
Is Your Quilt Ready for Long Arm Quilting?
Instructions in how to prepare your quilt for the best longarm quilting results.
- Trim loose threads on the top as they will interfere with machine quilting
- Baste 1/4inch around the quilt top if it has a pieced border. Make sure all seams are secure (particularly those along the edge of your quilt top)
- Seam allowances should be pressed appropriately.
- Please apply your borders properly. This is a vital step in your quilt making process – if the borders are longer than the top and applied without proper and accurate measuring, the top will not lay flat. Pleats and puckers will develop during the machine quilting process.
- To apply borders properly:
- Lay your top out on a flat surface and measure at least three different places across the width and length.
- If these measurements are not the same, take the average measurement and use this for cutting the borders.
- Apply each border to the quilt top evenly – divide the quilt top and border into quarters (or eighths) and ease or slightly stretch between marks, to make the border to fit.
- Fullness and or puckers within a border cannot be quilted out. I will try my best to work in some fullness, but I cannot guarantee that puckers and tucks will not be sewn in. Just remember, the flatter your quilt top lays, the better your finished quilt will look.
- Remover all embellishments
- Carefully fold or hang the quilt top and backing. Please do not pin or baste the top/backing/batting together as they need to be separate to be attached to the machine.
- Ideally a one-piece backing will allow for best results (use a “wide back” to eliminate piecing)
- Bed sheets can be used but I can not guarantee not having thread related issues due to the tight weave and lower quality of fabric
- Straighten (square) the edges of your backing (fold fabric to fit on cutting board and trim raw edges even); this ensures the quilt loads onto the machine straight, which is important for keeping the design square on your top
- The backing must be at least 6” larger than top on all four sides
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